Comments on: Navien Tankless Water Tank

By: administrator

administrator — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 15:03:21 +0000

You must have the wrong company, there is no Maria nor has there ever been one that worked here.

Give me some details on the unit and maybe we can help.

Take care

By: Glen Caines

Glen Caines — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 05:04:07 +0000

My father purchased one of your tankless water heater vevy unhappy with this product, Spoke to a Maria at your company today and she provide me with her e – mail address in order that I could send a letter outling the problems my father is having with this product, The e – mail address appairs to be invalid. Can some one in your company please get back to me asap.

Thank you, Glen Caines, Canada 416 918 – 5167

By: Andrew

Andrew — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 03:13:35 +0000

I remember also from the tech training that if you think you are having a pressure problem from the unit and you are running two different sources it may depend on how many GPM of water you are asking for and how much it can give you. If your one tap uses 2.5 GPM and the other shower for instance uses 2.5 thats 5 GPM there. If you have a dishwasher or perhaps an old tub filler and it is on but lets say it uses 3.0 + GPM, you turn on a 2.5 GPM tap thats 5.5 gpm. Lets say the unit is only capable of delivering 5.0 or 4.5 then you have trouble. A CR-180 A or non is Spected at delivering a MAX of 4.6 GPM @ 40 F inlet temp water. By the look of the symbols on the chart that is a shower and a tap. To be sure though, I would make sure the flow sensor is not restricted, the inlet shutoff valve is not faulty (Its an emergency shutoff valve when the unit leaks and I think it also throttles off the inlet water in the case where you are asking for more water than it is capable of delivering). If you had a CR 210 it would deliver a MAX of 5.3 GPM = 2 showers and if you had a 240 it says a MAX of 6.0 GMP = 2 showers & 1 tap. Up in Canada here our water is cooler which puts a limit on how much the units can deliver. Hopefully your issue is a clogged or restricted line in the unit and not that the unit is undersized. If the unit had not given trouble like this in the past then I would suspect a restriction and an issue with your pressure system or city water, perhaps both. If you are having problems still after doing the flushing, phone Navien at 1-800-519-8794 and or speak to the contractor.

By: Tankless Water Heaters » Blog Archive » Navien Problems

Tankless Water Heaters » Blog Archive » Navien Problems — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:20:45 +0000

[...] Additional Issues – Read Here [...]

By: administrator

administrator — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 23:10:00 +0000

Are you on a well? or city water?
How old is the house?
This could be a number of problems.
First narrow out the tankless, if you turn on two sources of cold water does the pressure drop then? If thats the case then it is the water pressure in the house. You can purchase booster pumps that can bring it up.
Otherwise if water pressure doesn’t drop then it appears that the tankless is the bottle neck in your system. It could be partially clogged or have buildup in the heat exchanger causing water to take longer to heat up. Try a tankless flush, there is a post on this site on how to do it.

Good luck.

By: wilf beaudry

wilf beaudry — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:53:42 +0000

My problem is that we have very poor water pressure.It is fine if we are only using one source but can not draw water from two place without almost a 90% drop in pressure.

By: Andrew

Andrew — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 21:29:52 +0000

What you may be talking about is the hot/cold/hot water stacking. Also known as the cold water sandwitch. Even though your unit has a buffer tank and recirc line (for inside the unit) the earlier models had them on the cold side and the new NR 240 A would have it on the hot. (or it may be the other way around I cant remember however I do remember them saying during the tech course that they changed what side the buffer tank is on in the new units). If you can I would run a hot water recirculation line from your furthest fixture (kitchen or bathroom whichever is the furthest and run it back to the unit), then you or your contractor whoever is doing it opens the valve and you can even set the pump timer on the controller to what hours of the day you want it to circulate before a shower bath or kitchen use. Also you might want him to check the flow switch to be sure it is not plugged or slowing down to much. On the newer models they use stainless steel brush where as the older ones were a plastic like brush and shaft.

By: administrator

administrator — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 01:52:34 +0000

I cant think of anything, maybe someone will pipe up here and come up with the cause.

By: Brier Minor

Brier Minor — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:57:00 +0000

We’re having a continuing issue with our newly installed Navien tankless (CR180A) in our home.

Twice now (in the last month or so-and it has only been installed for just over a month) the hot water stops completely just when it reaches full temperature at the tap. It trickles off and then when it comes on again it is cold. If we keep the faucet open the cold will turn hot again, and the process will repeat itself. We’ve checked the intake filter and the first time it had some residual solder bits. After cleaning it out it seem to be working fine, but now it has done it again. We thought it had something to do with the filter system being pretty sensitive, but this time it was relatively clean, and a further cleaning hasn’t solved the problem.

I should also add that we don’t have it piped in for external recirculation yet so it has only been on internal since we’ve been using it.
Any ideas?

By: Dave

Dave — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 19:49:26 +0000

Whenever there is a circulating pump a small potable water expansion tank is a good idea. It will usually save the dripping relief valve.